Sunday Supper: Naples' Beloved Pasta Genovese

As the sun sets over Naples, families gather around tables for a hearty Sunday supper, featuring a dish that’s steeped in history yet often misunderstood by its name. Pasta alla Genovese, despite what its name suggests, is not from Genoa but a beloved Neapolitan tradition dating back to the 1500s. Originally a peasant dish, it was made predominantly with onions, which were cheap and plentiful, while meat was used sparingly. The dish’s rich history is intertwined with tales of Genovese merchants in Naples, who are said to have introduced this comforting meal to the local people. Unlike my 'Lasagne di Bedonia' recipe which was a bit complicated, this dish is very easy to make and so incredibly delicious!

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The core of Pasta alla Genovese lies in its simplicity and depth of flavor, primarily driven by the slow-cooked onions that melt into a savory bed for the pasta. As these onions simmer gently for hours, they fill the entire house with the most intoxicating aromas, enveloping your senses and building anticipation for the meal to come. Embodying the spirit of a traditional Neapolitan Sunday supper, this dish draws on humble, readily available ingredients to deliver a profoundly satisfying experience. Here’s how you can prepare this enduring favorite just like it has been done for centuries in Naples.

If you choose to use fresh pasta, remember that about 1.5 lbs of fresh pasta equals 1 lb. of dried. I would recommend gargenellli which are fun to make (if you have time) and use a 7 egg / 700 g dough recipe.

Pasta Genovese Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1.5 kilo yellow onions (3 1/2 lbs.)

• 115 g pancetta, diced (4 oz.)

• 1 celery stalk, diced

• 2 carrots, diced

• 900 g beef chuck (2 lbs.)

• 2 bay leaves

• salt & pepper: to taste (q.b., "quanto basta" or "as much as needed")

• 350 ml dry white wine (1 1/2 cups)

• 60 g Parmigiano Reggiano (2 oz.)

• 45 g Pecorino cheese: (1.5 oz.)

• 1 lb. dried penne pasta or 1.5 lbs. of fresh (450 g dried / 680 g fresh)

How to Make Pasta alla Genovese:

• Prepare the Onions: Thinly slice the onions using a mandolin or a sharp knife and then cut the rings in half. This preparation helps the onions to wrap around the pasta beautifully as they cook down. If preferred, you can also chop the onions.

• Sauté Pancetta: If using pancetta, brown it in a cast iron pot and set aside. If not using pancetta, heat some olive oil in the same pot.

• Brown the Meat: Season the beef chuck with salt and pepper. If using a whole piece, sear it until browned on all sides, then remove and set aside. Cubed beef can also be used and is treated the same way.

• Cook Vegetables: In the same pot, add celery and carrots, sautéing until they start to color and soften. Add more olive oil if necessary, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go.

• Cook Onions: Add half the sliced onions to the pot and sauté until they begin to wilt. Then add the remaining onions and continue cooking until completely softened.

• Combine Ingredients: Return the pancetta to the pot along with the bay leaves and dry white wine, stirring to combine.

• Simmer the Sauce: Add the browned meat back into the pot. Cover and let the sauce simmer for at least 3 hours, though 5-6 hours is recommended for deeper flavor development. For convenience, you can also use a crock pot set to low, allowing the sauce to simmer throughout the day.

• Prepare the Pasta: Once the sauce is ready, remove the meat from the pot. Cook your pasta—penne or traditionally hand-torn tubular pasta—al dente and then mix it into the pot with the cooked onions.

• Finish the Dish: Stir in Pecorino and Parmesan cheeses, mixing well to ensure the pasta is evenly coated. Serve the pasta topped with additional grated Parmesan cheese and a sprinkle of fresh pepper.

• Serve: Traditionally, the pasta is served as the 'primo' (first course), followed by the meat as 'secondo'. Optionally, you can serve the meat atop the pasta, accompanied by a mixed salad of lettuce, endive, escarole, and radicchio.

In the traditional Italian course meal, Pasta alla Genovese is served as the 'primo' (first course), showcasing the richly flavored pasta alone, allowing the delicate balance of slow-cooked onions and tender pasta to shine. Following this, the meat that was stewed with the onions and used to enrich the sauce typically appears as the 'secondo' (second course), often accompanied by a fresh salad or seasonal vegetables to complete the meal. This division highlights the distinct flavors and craftsmanship of each component.

However, for a heartier dish, you may choose to serve the meat directly atop the pasta. This approach layers the rich meat with the pasta in one hearty dish, combining all the flavors for a more unified and satisfying meal experience. This variation is ideal for less formal settings or for those who prefer the convenience of enjoying all elements of the dish in a single serving

Wine Pairing Suggestions:

To beautifully complement Pasta alla Genovese, indulge in two exquisite wines from Cantine Astroni. During a memorable visit in 2018, Gerardo and Emanuela, the proprietors of this "urban winery" nestled in the heart of Naples, warmly welcomed us. They not only shared their excellent wines but also regaled us with fascinating historical anecdotes about the region's viticulture. The “Colle Rotondella” Campi Flegrei Piedirosso is notable for its light tannins and vibrant fruit notes, making it an excellent match for the robust flavors of the Genovese. Alternatively, the “Cratere Rosso” Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio offers a fuller body and richer palate, which beautifully complements the savory complexity of the dish.

Exploring Cantine Astroni and the Phlegrean Fields:

Situated near the volcanic soils of Campi Flegrei and Vesuvius, Cantine Astroni benefits from a unique terroir that significantly influences the characteristics of their wines. Known as the Phlegrean Fields or "the land that burns," this area includes the Naples districts of Agnano, Fuorigrotta, Pozzuoli, Bacoli, Monte di Procida, Quarto, and the islands of Ischia, Procida, and Vivara. These settings form a dramatic landscape that shapes the flavors of their diverse wine offerings, which include not only the two recommended for this dish but also a variety of whites such as Falanghina and Greco, and sparkling wines like their Spumante Metodo Classico. Gerardo and Emanuela's commitment to sustainable viticulture employs organic farming methods to enhance the natural quality of their wines while protecting the local ecosystem. Their approach ensures that each bottle not only reflects the rich volcanic essence of the region but also their dedication to environmental stewardship.

The Mythical Background of Lacryma Christi:

The wines of Vesuvio, particularly the Lacryma Christi (Tears of Christ), carry a mythical backstory intertwined with the physical and spiritual landscapes of the area. According to local legend, when Lucifer was cast out of heaven, he created the Gulf of Naples by stealing a piece of paradise. Christ, upon witnessing the beauty and tragedy of the landscape, wept, and his tears blessed the land, giving rise to the vines that produce these historically rich wines.

Legacy and Mythology of the Wine Region:

The history of winemaking in this region extends back to ancient times, around 500 BC, when the Greeks from Thessaly settled in the area and established vineyards on the fertile volcanic slopes created by Mount Vesuvius's eruptions. The rich volcanic ash contributed to the uniquely fertile soil that supports robust vine growth. The region's wine history is also steeped in mythology, with Bacchus (the Roman god of wine, equivalent to the Greek Dionysus) said to have preferred these volcanic hills over the Nysa mountains due to their sublime beauty and excellent conditions for viticulture. According to myths, Bacchus traversed these lands, teaching the local populations the art of winemaking—an endeavor that was as much divine privilege as it was a crucial aspect of cultural development.