Ramping Things Up: Tagliatelle & Spring Ramps

Ah, the elusive ramps! For those uninitiated in the world of foraging, ramps are like the hidden gems of the springtime forest. Picture this: a slender stalk topped with lush, vibrant green leaves, and a bulbous base nestled in the rich, damp earth. To the untrained eye, they may resemble scallions or wild leeks, but their distinct aroma and flavor set them apart.

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These wild onions have a taste that's best described as a harmonious blend of garlic and onion, with a hint of earthiness that speaks to their woodland origins. Imagine the pungent aroma of fresh garlic wafting through the forest, mingling with the earthy notes of damp soil and fallen leaves—that's the essence of ramps.

But here's the catch: ramps are not your everyday supermarket find. They're a seasonal delicacy, only available for a brief window in the early spring. And their fleeting availability only adds to their allure, inspiring foragers to venture deep into the woods in search of these coveted treasures.

Now, back to the foraging adventure. Picture yourself traipsing through the forest, eyes peeled for the telltale signs of ramps peeking through the undergrowth. I t's a treasure hunt like no other, where each discovery feels like striking gold. And when you finally unearth a patch of ramps, it's a moment of triumph—a reward for your patience and perseverance. But remember, with great reward comes great responsibility. Foraging for ramps is not just about the thrill of the hunt; it's also about respecting nature and preserving the delicate balance of the forest ecosystem.

Just the other day, my friends embarked on a covert mission into the woods, armed with baskets and keen eyes for spotting ramps. And when they finally struck gold and unearthed a patch of these wild delicacies, they treated the location like classified information. In a stroke of espionage-worthy tactics, they scrubbed all location data from the photos before sending them to me—just in case any curious souls tried to pry the whereabouts of their prized ramp spot from the metadata.

So, the next time you find yourself wandering through the woods in the early days of spring, or perusing the stalls of a farmers' market, keep an eye out for those elusive ramps. And if you're lucky enough to stumble upon a patch or spot them at a market, don't hesitate to incorporate them into your culinary creations. From simple sautés to savory soups and beyond, ramps offer a delicious taste of the season that's not to be missed.

Not every blog post needs to delve into deep-rooted traditions or sentimental anecdotes. Sometimes, it's the simple joys and seasonal delights that deserve our attention and celebration. In this recipe, we're shining a spotlight on the humble yet extraordinary ramps, those fleeting treasures of the springtime forest floor.

With just a handful of ingredients—fresh pasta, ramps, and a few kitchen staples—we can create a dish that pays homage to the delicate flavors and vibrant hues of these wild onions. It's a celebration of simplicity, allowing the natural beauty and essence of the ramps to take center stage. As we sauté the ramps until tender and fragrant, their aroma fills the kitchen, a tantalizing preview of the culinary delight to come. Tossed with al dente pasta fresca and finished with a sprinkle of Parmesan, this dish is a testament to the art of preserving the purity and flavor of seasonal ingredients. If you do not have time to make pasta fresca, you can substitute 1 lb. dried spaghetti in this recipe.

Tagliatelle & Spring Ramps Recipe

Serve 4 (or 6 appetizer portions)

The Pasta:

•   500 g imported “00” Flour

•   5 large eggs (room temp.)

•   Rimacinata Semolina flour for dusting

The Sauce:

• 225 g fresh ramps (8 oz.)

• 90 g unsalted butter (6 Tbs.)

• 200 g. pancetta (7 oz.) - finely diced

• a pinch of red pepper flakes

• juice & zest of 1 lemon

• Grated Parmigiano Reggiano

• salt & pepper q.b.

Instructions:

Make the Pasta Dough:

• Mound “00” flour on your work surface.  Make a well in the middle and pour the eggs into it.

• With a fork, start bringing small amounts of flour into the well in a circular motion.

• Once the center is firm enough that the liquid won’t run our, use a dough scraper to continue to combine.

• Knead by hand for 5-10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic.  Wrap and let rest at least 30 minutes.

• Divide the dough into 4 pieces. Using your pasta machine, start rolling each piece from the largest setting down to the 2nd smallest and dusting with semolina as needed to prevent sticking.

• If the strip of dough become too long to manage as you roll it, cut it in half or thirds.

• Let the sheets dry slightly, about 20 minutes, before cutting. This will help to prevent the pasta from sticking together.

• Cut the sheets into 6mm wide strips (1/4"). I cut mine a little too thick in the video, but you get the idea...

• Dust with more semolina and place on a sheet pan.
  

Putting it all together:

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

• Wash ramps, thinly slice the ramp bulbs (white part), and chop the greens into 3 or 4 pieces.

• When the water is almost to a boil, sauté pancetta until crispy in a large saucepan (or wok). If you can't find pancetta, you may omit it or use bacon. If you do not eat pork, you can easily omit the pancetta.

• Add the butter to the pan. When melted add the white part of the ramps, the red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper to taste. Sauté for about 2 minutes. Remove saucepan from the heat.

• When water comes to a boil, drop the pasta in.

• Return the saucepan to the heat and add 2 or 3 ladles of pasta water to the mixture.

• After 2-3 minutes, scoop out (or drain) the pasta and add it to the saucepan with the rest of the ingredients.

• Add the green part of the ramps to the pan and continue to cook for about a minute or two more.

• Remove from heat and fold in lemon juice and zest.

• Serve topped with plenty of grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
  

Wine Pairing for this Dish

When it comes to pairing wine with a dish as nuanced and flavorful as tagliatelle with spring ramps, choosing the right bottle can elevate the dining experience to new heights. I initially had all sorts of ideas for wine pairings with this dish, ranging from Sancerre and Chablis to a New World Sauvignon Blanc. I even considered a Vouvray Sec. After purchasing a bottle of each, and with my friends bringing along a white as well, one bottle emerged as the clear winner. It was the perfect match.

So, what was this mystery wine? Enter Santo Wines 1911 Assyrtiko, a unique Greek varietal with a rich history and a flavor profile perfectly suited to complement the delicate yet robust flavors of wild ramps and spaghetti. I've always been a huge fan of this grape, and I couldn't be happier that it stole the show in this pairing.

Assyrtiko is primarily grown on the island of Santorini, where its vines have thrived for centuries in the island's volcanic soil and unique microclimate. The best vines are situated at the top of the island with the most spectacular view of the Mediterranean Sea. They are trained to grow close to the ground in a circular fashion, almost like a basket with the grape bunches set on the inside.

The Assyrtiko grape is known for its high acidity, which lends itself well to cutting through the richness of the pasta and buttery sauce while enhancing the fresh, earthy notes of the ramps. Its minerality and crisp acidity provide a refreshing counterpoint to the dish, cleansing the palate with each sip and leaving you ready for the next flavorful bite. The Santo 1911 Assyrtiko is a standout example of the varietal, with its vibrant acidity, citrusy notes, and mineral-driven palate. Its crisp, refreshing profile makes it an ideal companion to the springtime flavors of ramps and pasta, enhancing the dish's overall harmony and depth.

So, while your first instinct may be to reach for a classic white wine pairing, don't overlook the allure of Assyrtiko. As you gather around the table to enjoy this delectable dish of tagliatelle with spring ramps, let the flavors of the season transport you to the heart of the forest, where the earth is rich, the air is crisp, and the bounty of nature awaits. And as you savor each bite accompanied by the crisp, refreshing notes of Santo Wines 1911 Assyrtiko, take a moment to appreciate the simple joys of springtime foraging and the vibrant flavors it brings to your plate. Cheers to the joys of seasonal cooking, the thrill of the hunt, and the timeless pleasure of sharing good food and wine with loved ones. Buon appetito!