Little Pockets of Heaven: Agnolotti del Plin

There’s something magical about pasta. It’s more than just food; it’s a gateway to memories, a tribute to heritage, and a celebration of the simplest joys in life. Among the many forms pasta can take, discovering Agnolotti del Plin on my first trip to Piedmont felt nothing short of magical. I was awestruck by the beauty of the region—the rolling hills, the endless vineyards, and the sense of history that seemed to permeate every corner. Piedmont quickly became one of my favorite places, not just for its stunning landscapes but also for its exceptional wines. The versatility of the wines here—from the robust Barolos to the elegant Arneis—makes Piedmont one of my favorite wine regions, a place where tradition and innovation blend seamlessly.

These delicate, stuffed pasta parcels, which I discovered as part of an aperitivo spread, were like little pockets of heaven, each one brimming with the flavors of Piedmont—a region in Italy as rich in culinary tradition as it is in its breathtaking scenery.

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Agnolotti del Plin, or simply Plin, is a dish deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of Piedmont. The name Plin means "pinch" in the local dialect, referring to the way these tiny agnolotti are sealed. This simple gesture—a quick pinch of the fingers—transforms a sheet of pasta into something extraordinary. It’s a technique passed down through generations, each pinch connecting us to the hands that came before, shaping not just the food but the very fabric of family and tradition.

Historically, Agnolotti del Plin was a humble dish, often made to use up leftover meat. In the rural areas of Piedmont, families would gather to prepare these little pockets of pasta, filling them with a mixture of meats—typically veal, pork, and rabbit—along with vegetables like cabbage or spinach. The filling was seasoned simply, with a touch of nutmeg or cinnamon, allowing the natural flavors to shine. The pasta was then served in a broth made from the same meats, creating a dish that was both nourishing and economical. Over time, Agnolotti del Plin evolved from a peasant dish into a beloved symbol of Piedmontese cuisine, celebrated not just for its taste but for the tradition it represents.

Agnolotti del Plin is a living tradition that continues to evolve. In Piedmont, and indeed in kitchens around the world, chefs and pasta aficionados alike experiment with new fillings and sauces, blending innovation with tradition in a way that honors the past while embracing the future. Whether you stick to the classic recipes or put your own twist on them, making Agnolotti del Plin is a way to connect with a rich culinary heritage and share it with those you love.

So the next time you’re looking to bring a little bit of Italy into your home, consider making Agnolotti del Plin. They may be small, but these little pockets of heaven carry within them a world of flavor, history, and love.

Recipe for Agnolotti del Plin

As I embarked on my journey to perfect Agnolotti del Plin, I explored a variety of recipes, each offering its own unique twist on this traditional dish. Some called for braised meats, while others used ground meat; some included spinach, chard, or cabbage, and others varied in their use of eggs in the filling. Through this process, I discovered that my preference leaned towards the tender texture of ground meat over braised. I found that a mix of spinach or chard with Savoy cabbage created a balanced and flavorful filling. The addition of eggs enriched the mouthfeel, giving the filling a silky smoothness that I loved. And, of course, no filling would be complete without a touch of nutmeg and a generous helping of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, which brings everything together in a symphony of flavors.

Remember my important tips from my other pasta fresca posts: 

1. Flour matters:  I only use “00” past flour for making ravioli.  You can find it in some supermarkets or online.

2. Invest in a scale:  A scale is a must for making consistent pasta fresca.  They are inexpensive.

3. Hand-knead the dough:  The dough needs to be stiff before resting, and a machine probably won’t work well.

4. Rolling the dough:  You can use a rolling pin, but an old-fashioned hand crank machine works best.

   
   

The Pasta:

• 600 g imported “00” Flour

• 6 large eggs (room temp.) - If you are weighing the eggs, I find 56 g egg to 100 g flour is a good ratio.

• Rimacinata Semolina flour for dusting

The Filling:

• 450 g ground pork (1 lb.)

• 300 g ground veal (2/3 lb.)

• 3/4 cup dry white wine

• 1 sprig of Rosemary (leaves only)

• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter

• 230 g Savoy cabbage (8 oz.)

• 115 g baby spinach (4 oz.)

• 115 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (4 oz.)

• 1/2 of a freshly ground nutmeg

• salt & pepper q.b. (means to taste)

• 2 large eggs

The Sauce:

• 55 g. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, preferably Italian

• 10 fresh sage leaves (slivered)

• 2-3 ladles of pasta water

• salt & pepper q.b.

• grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Instructions:

• Make the Pasta Dough:

  • Mound “00” flour on your work surface.  Make a well in the middle and pour the egg mixture into it.

  • Using a fork, start bringing small amounts of flour into the well in a circular motion.

  • Once the center is firm enough that the liquid won’t run our, use a dough scraper to continue to combine.

  • Knead by hand for 5-10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic.  Wrap and let rest at least 30 min.

• Make the Filling:

  • Add meat, rosemary and 1/2 cup of the white wine to a sauté pan. Sauté until the liquid has evaporated and the meat starts to caramelize.

  • Pulse meat mixture in a food processor until finely minced and set aside in a mixing bowl.

  • Melt 2 Tbs. of butter in the pan. Add the cabbage and sauté about 5-10 minutes until just starting to soften.

  • Add the remaining white wine to the pan and cook a few minutes more until it has evaporated.

  • Add the spinach to the pan with the cabbage and continue to cook until wilted.

  • Pulse cabbage spinach mixture in a food processor until it is finely minced. Add it to the bowl with the meat mixture.

  • Add the Parmigiano Reggiano, nutmeg, and salt & pepper to taste to the bowl. You want the filling to be slightly over seasoned because the pasta fresca does not contain salt.

  • Add the eggs and mix to combine well. Prepare a pastry bag with a medium size round tip for the filling.

• Make the Plin

  • Divide the dough into 4 pieces, keeping the ones you are not using covered so they do not dry out.

  • Dusting with semolina as needed, roll the dough on your pasta machine to the second smallest setting. Make sure to run it through the last setting twice.

  • Cut the dough into 2-inch wide strips, then pipe a line of filling along the edge of the strip. You may want to cover any dough you are not working with with a towel to prevent drying.

  • Fold the dough over and press to seal the edges. Then pinch along the filling with both hands at equal intervals.

  • Use a ravioli cutter to run along the long edge first, then cut each plin by starting at the folded edge so that the fold falls forward, creating the signature shape.

  • Move the finished plin to a pan dusted liberally with semolina.

Putting it all together:

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Drop the plin in and cook for about 2-3 minutes.

• While the plin is cooking, melt the butter in a large saucepan and sauté the sage leaves.

• Add a few ladles of pasta water to the butter and sage mixture and season with salt & pepper. 

• Add the plin to the sauté pan and continue to cook tossing in the sauce for a about a minute more. 

• Transfer to a serving bowl and served topped with lots of grated Parmigiano Reggiano!

Admittedly, my Plin are a bit larger than what you typically find in Piedmont. I’m convinced that somewhere in the hills of Piedmont, there’s a secret society of pasta makers armed with tiny plin-pinching tools—probably passed down through generations—that I’ve yet to discover. How else do they get them so small? If not, then making Plin that tiny by hand is clearly a skill that remains just out of my reach. Maybe one day I’ll master it, but until then, I’m perfectly happy with my “generously-sized” Plin!

Wine Pairing

During my visits to the Ascheri winery, I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing firsthand how these wines are crafted with such care and precision. Pairing them with Agnolotti del Plin feels like bringing a piece of Piedmont’s soul into my home.

The first time I paired Agnolotti del Plin with Ascheri Langhe Barbera Fontanelle, it was like finding the missing piece of a puzzle—the vibrant acidity of the wine lifted the rich flavors of the dish, creating a harmony that was simply unforgettable. This Barbera, hailing from the Langhe region of Piedmont, offers a vibrant acidity that is a hallmark of the Barbera grape. The Fontanelle vineyard, known for producing wines with depth and character, brings out the best in this varietal. The wine has a beautiful balance of red fruit flavors—think ripe cherries and plums—with a hint of spice and a subtle earthy undertone. This acidity cuts through the richness of the butter sage sauce, cleansing the palate with each bite while the fruitiness of the wine enhances the savory and herbaceous notes of the dish. The soft tannins in this Barbera ensure that the pairing remains harmonious, allowing the delicate flavors of the Agnolotti to shine without being overshadowed.

As an alternative, the Ascheri Langhe Arneis offers a refreshing contrast and carries a special significance as it is named after Matteo’s mother, Cristina. Arneis, often referred to as the "white Barolo" due to its origins in the same region as the famed Nebbiolo wines, is a white varietal with a lovely aromatic profile. The Ascheri Langhe Arneis presents notes of pear, apricot, and a hint of almond, with a crisp acidity that pairs wonderfully with the buttery richness of the sage sauce. The wine’s slight mineral edge and floral notes provide a counterbalance to the richness of the dish, making it an excellent option for those who prefer a white wine pairing. The Arneis’s lightness and elegance complement the Agnolotti del Plin, allowing the flavors to dance on the palate without overwhelming the dish.

Ascheri’s wines are celebrated for their balance, elegance, and depth, making them perfect companions to traditional Piedmontese dishes like Agnolotti del Plin. Whether you choose the Barbera or the Arneis, you’re not just enjoying a glass of wine—you’re savoring a piece of Piedmont’s rich winemaking history.

History of the Ascheri Winery

The Ascheri winery, established in 1880, is one of the most respected and historic producers in the Piedmont region. Located in Bra, a town known for its connection to the Slow Food movement, Ascheri has long been a champion of traditional winemaking techniques while also embracing innovation. The winery was founded by Matteo Ascheri, who began cultivating vines in the area, and it has remained a family-owned and operated business for generations. Today, the winery is overseen by Matteo Ascheri, the fourth generation, who not only continues the legacy with a deep respect for the land and its traditions but also serves as the head of the Barolo Consorzio. In this role, Matteo is a key figure in safeguarding the quality and heritage of Barolo wines, ensuring that the region's esteemed reputation continues to thrive both locally and globally.

The Ascheri estate spans multiple vineyards across the Langhe, including in the prestigious Barolo zone. The winery’s philosophy is rooted in minimal intervention, allowing the unique terroir of each vineyard to express itself in the wines. The Langhe Barbera Fontanelle, from a single vineyard known for its exceptional quality, is a prime example of Ascheri’s commitment to producing wines that are true to their origins. Similarly, the Langhe Arneis reflects the winery’s dedication to preserving and celebrating the traditional varietals of Piedmont, offering a pure expression of the region’s white wine heritage.

In the heart of Bra, just steps away from the bustling life of this vibrant town, there is a boutique hotel built atop the winery, with Matteo’s sister running a restaurant (Osteria Murivecchi) on the property. While Bra may not be a quaint village nestled in the hills, it offers its own unique charm and serves as the gateway to exploring the rich culinary and wine traditions of the region. The hotel is a stylish retreat, where modern comforts meet a deep sense of Piedmontese hospitality. The restaurant, a true highlight, serves dishes that celebrate the region’s culinary heritage, perfectly paired with the estate’s wines. It’s a place where guests can immerse themselves in the local culture, enjoying both the convenience of the town and the warmth of family-run hospitality.

I’ve had the pleasure of working with Matteo and his wines for over a decade during my time with a New York wine distributor. Over the years, I’ve visited the winery many times, each visit deepening my appreciation for the meticulous care and passion that goes into every bottle. Whether dining at the family’s restaurant or discussing winemaking in the cellar with Matteo, each experience has been a reminder of the strong connection between the land, the people, and the wines they produce. This connection is something I’m proud to share with you through this pairing of Ascheri wines with Agnolotti del Plin.

In every bite of Agnolotti del Plin, there’s a story—a story of tradition, of families gathered around the table, of generations passing down not just recipes but the love that goes into making them. Pairing this dish with wines like Ascheri’s Barbera or Arneis deepens that connection, bringing the flavors of Piedmont to life in a way that’s both timeless and utterly personal. For me, Piedmont is more than just a place—it’s a source of endless inspiration, a reminder of the beauty that comes from simplicity and tradition. Every time I make Agnolotti del Plin, I’m transported back to those rolling hills and endless vineyards, and I’m reminded why I fell in love with this region so deeply.

As you prepare and enjoy this meal, you’re not just creating food; you’re creating memories, linking your own experiences with those of countless others who have shared in the joy of making and savoring Agnolotti del Plin. In a world that’s always moving forward, it’s the simple, enduring traditions like making Agnolotti del Plin that remind us of where we’ve come from and what truly matters—sharing food, love, and memories with those who mean the most.