For the Love of Torta: My Ultimate Comfort Food

If you've never heard of Torta d’Erbe, Torta di Patate, or Torta di Zucca, you're not alone. Many Italian Americans might scratch their heads at these names. These savory delights, cherished in the mountainous Alto Val Taro region (also often referred to as Val di Taro) west of Parma and the northern reaches of Tuscany bordering Alto Val Taro, are a delightful little secret that begs to be shared. I have fond—and rather amusing—memories of packing them for school lunches, causing quite the stir in the lunchroom of my predominantly Irish hometown. Over the years, we've managed to convert many skeptics into devout fans of this initially intimidating delight.

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So, what exactly is this mysterious "Torta"? While "torta" typically means cake in Italian, don't expect a sugary treat. This torta is a savory masterpiece, traditionally crafted from foraged greens encased in a flaky crust made of flour, oil, and water, and baked to a golden perfection. In the Borgo Val di Taro area, I am finding that the crust often includes lard or butter instead of oil, adding a rich depth to the pastry. The fillings vary wildly—from Swiss chard and potato to pumpkin, spinach, zucchini, artichoke, and cabbage, each adding its own unique twist to the torta.

Here's a picture from our torta discovery at a quaint shop called Dai Ragazzi Societa' Cooperativa Sociale in Borgo Val di Taro last November. On the left, you'll find rice-filled torta, while spinach-filled torta graces the right side. My son and I could distinctly discern that the crust in these two versions was made with lard.

In the spirit of my nonna’s kitchen, these recipes have evolved from their traditional roots, adapting to the ingredients available in the United States or to stretch a meal further during tougher times. However, adaptation when it comes to torta isn't unusual, as I've learned that nearly every family in the region claims their version of torta is the best—similar to the way every Greek family has their unique take on stuffed grape leaves. Some of her siblings would make a version with rice and zucchini, others would omit the crust or use a yeasted crust or pie pastry. The cheeses added evolved into what was most readily available to them.

But why settle for one when you can have three?

My grandmother only made three types: Swiss chard, potato, and pumpkin. Each one is a delightful journey into flavor, texture, and tradition. The aroma of these savory tortas baking is truly transformative—imagine the comforting scents of leek, onion, and cheese mingling with vegetables and eggs, all coming together in a bubbling, browned treasure. It’s a smell that promises something transformative. And the flavors—the Swiss chard torta bursts with the earthy goodness of greens, the potato torta is a hearty comfort food dream, and the pumpkin torta offers a sweet and savory balance that's truly irresistible.

Torta is delicious whether served warm or cold, and though it keeps well in the fridge, good luck having it last more than a few days—it’s simply too tempting! It's keeps so well that my nonna would sometimes send it in care packages to her loved ones living in other states. My favorite varies; it really depends on the day. The tastes are a tether to my childhood, each bite a memory.

I vividly recall my grandfather’s ritual after baking a torta: flipping it onto a board, covering it delicately to cool, then slicing it into strips and cutting those diagonally. Why diagonally? That’s a secret lost to time, but it was the only way, according to him. He was adamant about it, and I don't ever recall him allowing anyone else to slice the precious torta. I'm the baby in the photo, in my grandfather's arms as we gather in their Astoria brownstone apartment, eagerly awaiting the unveiling of Nonna's amazing meal.

Feeling hungry yet? Indulging in the warmth and comfort of Torta is more than just a culinary experience—it's a journey through tradition, heritage, and family. Whether you're savoring the earthy flavors of Torta d’Erbe, the hearty goodness of Torta di Patate, or the sweet-savory balance of Torta di Zucca, each bite tells a story of generations past and present.

So, grab your apron, gather your loved ones, and let’s bring this piece of Italian heritage into your kitchens and your hearts, continuing a tradition and maybe starting some new stories of your own. After all, everyone should have at least one great savory "Torta" experience in their lifetime. With each slice, you'll create new memories and traditions that will last a lifetime. Buon appetito!

Recipes for Torta 3 Ways

Recipe for the Dough

Ingredients:

• 300 g. flour (2 cups)

• 150 g. water (2/3 cups)

• 50 g. extra virgin olive oil

• 1/2 tsp. salt

Instructions:

• Combine all ingredients in a bowl, stand mixer, or food processor.

• If making by hand knead until smooth. If using the stand mixer, mix on a low setting for 2 minutes. If using a food processor, pulse until well combined and smooth.

• Wrap the dough so it doesn't dry out and let rest for at least 20 minutes.

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Recipe for Torta di Zucca (Pumpkin Torta)

Ingredients:

• 3 sugar pumpkins

• 1/2 cup rice - cooked until slightly al dente

• 1 small yellow onion (140 g/5 oz.)

• Leeks (255 g/9 oz)

• 1 Tbs bacon fat / 1 Tbs. butter

• 3/4 cup half & half or whole milk

• 170 g ricotta cheese (6 oz.)

• 140 g grated Swiss cheese (5 oz.)

• 85 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano (3 oz.)

• 2 large eggs - beaten
  

If you can't find sugar pumpkins, you can substitute 2 butternut squash weighing approximately 2.4 kg (5 1/4 lbs.) before cooking or three 15-oz. cans of pumpkin puree. If you are using canned pumpkin, be carful not to buy the ones with pumpkin pie spice added.

Directions:

• Preheat the oven to 375 F. Cut pumpkin or squash in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds.

• Lay cut side down on a baking sheet and bake until tender when pierced with a fork - about 45 min to an hour. It should yield about 1.2 to 1.4 kg (2 3/4 to 3 pounds).  

• While the pumpkin is cooking, prepare the dough. Recipe for the Dough

• Finely chop the onion and leek. Only use the white part of the leek and about an inch of where it starts to turn green. I usually loosely chop the leek and soak it in water because they tend to be sandy.

• Sauté onion and leek in the bacon fat until soft - about 30 minutes. If you are opposed to bacon fat or butter, you may substitute oil instead. There is nothing quite like the heavenly smell of onion and leek cooking in bacon fat.

• Once the pumpkin is cooked, scoop it out of the skin and mash it in a large bowl.

• Increase the oven to 400 F. 

• Add the leek/onion mixture and the remaining ingredients to the squash.  Season with salt and pepper, if needed, before adding the eggs.

• Reserve the bowl used to beat the eggs and add a couple of tablespoons of water to the beaten egg remaining in the bowl.

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Recipe for Torta d'Erbe (Swiss Chard Torta)

Ingredients:

• 2-3 bunches of Swiss Chard (about 1 kg/2.25 lbs.)

• 1/2 cup of long grain rice - cooked until al dente

• 2 yellow onions - total weight 255 g (9 oz.)

• Leeks (340 g. /12 oz.) - about 255 g/9 oz after trimmed

• 1 Tbs bacon fat / 1 Tbs. butter

• 1/2 cup of half & half or whole milk

• 115 g grated Swiss cheese (4 oz.)

• 85 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano (3 oz.)

• 2 large eggs - beaten

Directions:

• Make the dough. Recipe for the Dough

• Wash the chard thoroughly to remove all of the sand.  If it is really sandy, I like to soak it in a big pot of cold water.

• Cut into large pieces, put in a large pot, cover with water, and add salt. 

• Bring to a boil & simmer for 20-30 minutes until the stalks are tender. 

• While the Swiss chard is cooking, sauté the onion and leek in the bacon fat until soft - about 30 minutes. If you are opposed to bacon fat or butter, you may substitute oil instead. There is nothing quite like the heavenly smell of onion and leek cooking in bacon fat.

• Preheat the oven to 400 F.

• Drain the Swiss chard in a colander then pulse in a food processor until coarsely chopped. Return chard to the colander to drain some more to remove excess moisture.

• Combine the Swiss chard and the remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper, if needed, before adding the eggs.

• Reserve the bowl used to beat the eggs and add a couple of tablespoons of water to the beaten egg remaining in the bowl.

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Recipe for Torta di Patate (Potato Torta)

Ingredients:

• 1.4 kg Idaho/russet potatoes (3 lbs.)

• 2 yellow onions - total weight 255 g (9 oz.)

• Leeks (300 g/11 oz.) - about 215 g/7.5 oz after trimmed

• 1 Tbs bacon fat / 1 Tbs. butter

• 1 1/2 cups half & half or whole milk

• 140 g grated Swiss cheese (5 oz.)

• 70 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano (2.5 oz.)

• 4 large eggs - beaten

Directions:

• Make the dough. Recipe for the Dough

• Wash and peel the potatoes. Cut into large chunks, place in a large pot, cover with water, and add 1 Tbs. of salt.

• Bring to a boil and cook until tender when pierced with a fork. About 20-25 minutes.

• While the potatoes chard is cooking, sauté the onion and leek in the bacon fat until soft - about 30 minutes. If you are opposed to bacon fat or butter, you may substitute oil instead. There is nothing quite like the heavenly smell of onion and leek cooking in bacon fat.

• Preheat the oven to 400 F.

• Drain the potatoes in a colander and either pass them through a ricer or mash them.

• Combine the potatoes and the remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper, if needed, before adding the eggs.

• Reserve the bowl used to beat the eggs and add a couple of tablespoons of water to the beaten egg remaining in the bowl.

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Assembling & Baking the Torta

• Coat a 1/2 sheet pan (13” x 18”) with a thin layer of olive oil. I always use 1/2 sheet pans (which can be found at any restaurant supply place or amazon) because they seem to be the perfect pan for torta. The shallow depth of the pan makes is very easy to judge the thickness and not overstuff your torta.

• Dusting with flour, roll the dough on a large surface until is it larger than the pan and as thin as a few sheets of paper.  Some relatives have started rolling the dough using their pasta machine.

• Slide the oiled pan underneath the dough and pour the filling into the pan. I usually fold the dough in half that move it to the pan so that the folded edge is in the middle of the pan

• Cut away the corners of the dough to prevent too much overlap. Then pull the dough up over the sides leaving a small whole the middle for moisture to evaporate.

• Whisk egg with water (or add some water to the bowl from the beaten egg) and brush mixture on top of the torta. Try to be careful not to let the egg slip down the sides of the pan or your torta may stick to the edges.

• Bake for about 1 hour until dark golden brown on the top and pulling away from the edges.

• Invert onto a wooden board.  Cover it with a dish towel (because that’s just what you do) and let it cool slightly. Resist the temptation to cut it when it is too hot, or it may fall apart.

• Slice the torta in 7 strips (along the 13” edge – short strips not long ones) and then cut each strip on the diagonal into 5 pieces.  If you prefer appetizer size slices than cut them smaller.

Wine Pairing Suggestions

Wine Pairing for Torta di Zucca

Immerse yourself in the rich flavors of Torta di Zucca alongside the Fiegl Colllio Ribolla Gialla Oslavia, a wine that embodies the essence of the Collio region. Nestled amidst the rolling hills of Friuli Venezia Giulia, this wine captures the terroir and tradition of the area.

The Ribolla Gialla Oslavia, a hallmark creation of Fiegl, celebrates the dedication and expertise of the winemaker. Cultivated from Ribolla Gialla grapes nurtured in the esteemed Oslavia vineyard, this wine enchants with delicate aromas of citrus, white flowers, and a subtle minerality. Its elegant profile harmonizes flawlessly with the robust flavors of the Torta di Zucca, creating a symphony of taste on the palate.

The Ribolla Gialla Oslavia, a flagship wine from Fiegl, celebrates the dedication and expertise of the winemaker. Cultivated from Ribolla Gialla grapes nurtured in the esteemed Oslavia vineyard, this wine enchants with delicate aromas of citrus, white flowers, and a subtle minerality. Its elegant profile harmonizes flawlessly with the robust flavors of the Torta di Zucca, creating a symphony of taste on the palate.

Fun fact: Fiegl Winery boasts a rich family heritage spanning back to the late 1700s, with a steadfast commitment to sustainable viticulture and artisanal winemaking practices. Their wines reflect a deep-rooted passion for quality and authenticity, evident in every bottle.

Uncork a bottle of Fiegl Colllio Ribolla Gialla Oslavia and immerse yourself in a culinary journey that celebrates tradition and innovation. Let each sip evoke the warmth of homemade Torta di Zucca, inviting you to savor the timeless flavors of Italy.

Wine Pairing for Torta d'Erbe

Enhance your sensory adventure with the Giacomelli Colli di Luni Vermentino Pianacce, an exquisite accompaniment to the Torta d'Erbe. Hailing from the picturesque hills of Liguria, Giacomelli Winery captures the essence of the region in every bottle.

Produced from Vermentino grapes grown in the renowned Pianacce vineyard, this wine embodies the essence of Liguria's terroir.  It exudes crisp acidity, vibrant citrus notes, and a touch of minerality.  It is quite refreshing on the palate and perfectly complements the savory richness of the Torta d'Erbe, creating a delightful harmony of flavors.

Fun fact: Giacomelli Winery is a family-run estate rooted in a legacy of sustainable farming and artisanal winemaking. With a deep reverence for tradition and terroir, they craft wines that embody the spirit of Liguria's coastal landscape.

Savor a glass of Giacomelli Colli di Luni Vermentino Pianacce, and immerse yourself in the culinary heritage of Italy. Let each sip transport you to the sun-drenched hills of Liguria, where tradition meets innovation in every bottle.

Wine Pairing for Torta di Patate

Elevate your Torta di Patate experience with the Tiberio Colline Pescaresi Pecorino, a wine that captivates the senses and complements the flavors of the Potato Torta. From the rugged hills of Abruzzo, Tiberio Winery crafts wines that pay homage to the region's rich winemaking heritage.

Produced from Pecorino grapes cultivated in the rugged Colline Pescaresi, this wine embodies the essence of Abruzzo with its crisp acidity, vibrant citrus notes, and hints of floral and herbal nuances.  This wine harmonizes exquisitely with the hearty flavors of the Potato Torta, creating a symphony of taste sensations on the palate.

Fun fact: Cristiana Tiberio, the visionary winemaker behind Tiberio Winery, is renowned for her dedication to reviving indigenous grape varieties and crafting wines of exceptional quality. Her commitment to sustainability and innovation has earned her recognition as one of Italy's leading female winemakers.

So, raise a glass of Tiberio Colline Pescaresi Pecorino and toast to the artistry of Cristiana Tiberio and the culinary delights of Italian cuisine. With each sip, savor the harmonious interplay of flavors and celebrate the enduring legacy of Abruzzo's winemaking tradition. Salute!

More about this 'Trio of Grapes'

Pecorino, Ribolla Gialla, and Vermentino are three distinctive Italian grape varieties, each contributing unique characteristics to the world of wine.  Pecorino, named after the sheep ("pecora" in Italian) that once grazed the vineyards, thrives in the rugged hills of central Italy, particularly in the Abruzzo region. Ribolla Gialla, originating from the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in northeastern Italy, is prized for its versatility and vibrant acidity.  Vermentino, a beloved grape of the Ligurian and Tuscan coastlines, captures the essence of the Mediterranean coast, inviting wine enthusiasts to savor the sun-kissed flavors of Italy with every sip.

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