Astoria Artichokes: From Greece to Italy, A Culinary Union

Ah, the artichoke: a thorny yet beguiling beauty, dividing dinner tables into camps of adoration and disdain. My own love affair with artichokes stretches back to childhood, where many a friend was converted at our kitchen table. Ready for a recipe that could sway even the staunchest skeptic? Let's dive in!

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A quick backstory, because every recipe has its tale: my grandmother, a young Italian immigrant, arrived in New York’s Astoria, Queens in the 1920s—a neighborhood then burgeoning with fellow Italians. Yet, as the years wove in more threads from Greece, the cultural tapestry of Astoria transformed. It wasn’t an inherited Italian recipe that made artichokes a fixture at our family gatherings, but rather a gift from a Greek neighbor whose name has faded with time but whose culinary legacy clings with every steamed leaf and heart. This dish is a cherished nod not just to a place, but to the mingling of cultures that could turn even humble vegetables into bridges between old worlds and new beginnings.

After meticulously preparing the artichokes, she would stuff each leaf, ensuring that a delightful hint of the heavenly stuffing—bursting with cheese, garlic, and parsley—accompanied each bite. She then steamed them over a gentle simmer in as many pots as our kitchen could hold, coaxing each leaf into tender submission, until they reached perfection.

Artichokes often get a tricky rep in the wine pairing arena, but we couldn't resist the challenge to find the perfect vino companion for a stuffed artichoke delight. What we discovered might just surprise you. Stick around for the unexpected reveal!

Stuffed Artichoke Recipe

serves 4-6 (because at least one person will want 2)

Ingredients:

• 7-8 artichokes (medium size)

• 16 oz. of Italian seasoned breadcrumbs (450 g) - My grandmother only used 4C brand.

• 3 oz. grated good quality Parmigiana Reggiano (85 g)

• 1 large bunch of parsley minced – grandma liked to use curly.  She said it had more flavor.

• 1.5 oz. minced fresh garlic (45 g)

• ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

• 1 ½ cups water

• salt & pepper q.b.

Instructions:

• Mix the Stuffing: Start by combining the breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, parsley, garlic, olive oil, and a bit of water in a bowl. Hold off on adding more water right away—give it a minute to see how well the mixture absorbs what you’ve already added. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, but go easy since the breadcrumbs are already seasoned.

• Check the Consistency: You’re aiming for the consistency of firm dough; it shouldn’t feel grainy. If it does, sprinkle in a little more water until it feels just right. Once mixed, set your stuffing aside and get those artichokes ready..

• Prepare the Artichokes:

  • Trim the Base: Slice off the bottom of each artichoke so it can stand upright.

  • Remove the Tops: Cut away about a half-inch to an inch from the top of each artichoke. 

  • Snip the Tips: Use scissors to trim the pointy ends of each leaf. Tip: Doing this inside a bag can help catch the flying tips. After trimming, your artichokes should resemble the photo at the beginning of this post.

  • Open Up: Gently stretch the leaves outward to make room for the stuffing.
    

• Stuff the Artichokes:  Begin stuffing each leaf with about ¾ teaspoon of your breadcrumb mixture, starting from the outer leaves and working inward. Press the stuffing down into each leaf as you go.

• Close and Top: After stuffing, press the leaves back together to close any gaps and help the stuffing settle. Any leftover stuffing can be mounded on top for extra flavor.

• Set Up for Cooking:  Arrange the stuffed artichokes in a single layer at the bottom of a pot (or across multiple pots, if necessary). Pour in about an inch of water—just enough to steam them without submerging them. 

• Begin Cooking: Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover the pot and let the artichokes cook for about 1¼ to 1½ hours. You’ll know they’re ready when the leaves can be easily pulled off and are tender to the bite. I've seen some recipes that have suggested baking the artichokes in a pan covered with foil instead. I have tried this method and I find that it doesn't work as well. The artichokes on the outer sides of the pan tend to dry out a bit and they just aren't the same.

• Monitor the Water Level: Keep an eye on the water level throughout cooking. If it looks like it's evaporating too quickly, add a bit more to ensure the artichokes don’t burn and continue cooking evenly.

These steps will help ensure your artichokes turn out perfectly steamed and deliciously tender, ready to be enjoyed by everyone at the table!

Time to Eat the Artichokes!

Oh, if my dad were still here, he’d insist there’s an art—a proper way—to savor a stuffed artichoke. Begin at the bottom, gently tug each leaf, and dip the base (the part that was snug against the heart) into your mouth first. Use your top teeth to scrape, savoring how the tender flesh melds with that scrumptious stuffing right on your tongue. But the technique doesn’t end there—you should also aim to leave the tiniest pile of spent leaves on your plate as you progress. My father grew up with the family having a contest about who can make the smallest pile of leave.

And remember, NEVER, EVER discard the heart; it's the grand finale to your artichoke adventure. After peeling away the top, nibble on any remaining tender leaf parts, then carefully remove the fuzzy choke. What you're left with—the heart—is your well-deserved reward. Enjoy every last bite!

The winner of the smallest pile contest on this particular night was my daughter with my friend Leslie, who is sadly no longer with us, being runner up.

The Wine Pairings

Pairing wine with artichokes can be famously tricky. To tackle this challenge, we approached it with an open mind, adding a few unexpected wines to taste. We organized a blind tasting to keep our focus solely on the flavors, ensuring no preconceptions about the varietal, country, or region influenced our judgments. We found ourselves surrounded by numerous potential pairings, passionately debating back and forth to discern the very best match for the artichokes.

In the end, the winners were....drum roll please....

Colleleva Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche just slightly edged out the number two wine. This white wine from the Marche region of Italy, is known for its high acidity and often has a slightly bitter (herbaceous) finish, which can make it an excellent match for artichokes. Artichokes contain cynarin, a chemical that can make wines taste sweeter than they are. The natural bitterness and crisp acidity of Verdicchio can counterbalance this effect, maintaining its flavor profile when paired with artichokes.

Additionally, Verdicchio's flavor profile often includes notes of citrus, green apple, and herbs, with a touch of almond on the finish, which complements the earthy, nutty qualities of artichokes. The wine's ability to maintain its structure and provide a refreshing counterpoint to the creaminess of dishes like stuffed artichokes or an artichoke dip makes it a strategic pairing choice.

Our runner up was Momo Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. Sauvignon Blanc is known for its vibrant acidity and pronounced flavor profile, which typically includes notes of citrus, green herbs, and tropical fruits. This crispness and the herbaceous undertones can complement the flavors of the stuffing, especially if it includes garlic, parsley, or similar herbs.

The bright acidity of Momo Sauvignon Blanc helps cut through the richness of the stuffing, refreshing the palate between bites. Additionally, the herbal and citrus notes in the wine can highlight any lemon or herbal elements used in preparing the artichokes, creating a harmonious flavor bridge between the dish and the wine. While artichokes can be challenging to pair due to their tendency to make wines taste sweeter, the robust character of a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, like Momo, tends to stand up well to such effects, maintaining its flavor integrity and enhancing the overall dining experience.

As our culinary journey with artichokes comes to a close, it’s clear that these thorny, yet delectable vegetables are more than just an ingredient; they're a gateway to experimenting with flavors and traditions in the kitchen. Whether it's through a traditional family recipe passed down through generations or a novel wine pairing that elevates the dish to new heights, artichokes offer a unique canvas for culinary creativity. Remember, each bite not only offers a taste of the Mediterranean but also a reminder of the simplicity and richness that good food can bring to our lives. Here’s to many more meals that bring as much joy and exploration as the humble artichoke!