A Toast to Elena: Nonna’s Ravioli

My passion for cooking was sparked in Astoria, Queens, where my Italian grandmother, Elena, crafted her culinary creations. Yet, its true origin traces back to a town in the Comune of Bardi, nestled in the Alta Val Taro region of northwestern Italy. Sometimes we would visit her in Astoria, and other times she would journey to our home just north of New York City. Each encounter was a revelation of flavors—stuffed artichokes revealing secrets of the old country, ravioli that delighted the palate, risotto as creamy as a dream, and lasagna layered with tales of Italy. Little did I know, these meals were more than mere feasts; they were part of her legacy.

This photo takes me back to Nonna Elena's table, surrounded by the lush greenery of her beloved plants, which thrived under her tender care. I'm the toothless one on the left, there with my two sisters. It's moments like these—full of laughter, family, and good food—that inspired my journey into the world of Italian cooking.

Grandma Elena lived by a simple culinary philosophy that resonates with me to this day: elevate your dish with one standout ingredient. Despite limited resources, she believed that by investing in one key element, you could transform the entire meal into culinary enchantment. Though, for her ravioli, I bend the rules just a tad—both the flour and the Parmigiano Reggiano are the stars of this show. Yes, you heard it right, flour. Surprisingly, the type of flour you use plays a crucial role in crafting the most extraordinary pasta dishes.

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April 1986 marked a visit that would forever be etched in my heart.  My grandmother, in what seemed like a culinary marathon, crafted 1023 ravioli, a number as memorable as the flavors themselves.  Little did we know, this would be one of her final acts of love.  Diagnosed with cancer just days after, she left us within a few weeks, taking a piece of our hearts and her recipes with her.

The loss was profound—not just of our beloved grandmother but potentially of her culinary treasures.  Yet, years after her passing, I found a mission: to recreate the magic of her dishes.  Equipped with memories of her making pasta and her notes scribbled with ingredients like “a large bunch of Swiss chard” and “a handful of Parmigiano Reggiano,” I set out to capture the essence of her recipes.

Let me be clear: crafting homemade ravioli is no swift affair.  It’s a journey, a labor of love that demands patience and a touch of whimsy.  If you're seeking instant culinary gratification, this tale might not be for you. But for those willing to dive into the art of pasta making, to experience the blend of tradition and personal discovery, I invite you to join me. Let’s honor our heritage, embrace the adventure, and maybe, just maybe, create something unforgettable, one delectable bite at a time.

In the Alto Val Taro region of Italy, traditional ravioli are called tortelli and are typically served in a butter sage sauce. This traditional tortelli doesn’t include meat either, a tradition more common to Liguria or Tuscany.  Yet, Nonna Elena added meat to hers and opted for a light marinara.  I can’t help but wonder if this was a nod to distant family roots in a nearby region, or simply her way of nourishing a family of seven?  The answer may always remain a loving mystery. To explore more about ravioli, its northern influences, and how regional traditions might have shaped Nonna’s recipe, click here and to read more about the differences between ravioli and tortelli click here.

Wine Pairing for this Dish

But to truly capture the essence of Emilia-Romagna on the palate, one must not overlook the perfect companion—the wine. It’s here we traverse from the western parts of Emilia, where my grandparents hailed from, to the eastern reaches of Romagna, where the Tre Monti Vineyard lays its roots. It's an east meets west story within the same region—a testament to the diversity and richness of the Italian terroir.

Tre Monti’s Campo di Mezzo Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore, is a jewel from the eastern vineyards close to the gentle breezes of the Adriatic, that brings forth a wine that’s as vibrant and spirited as the Romagna side of the region itself. The Sangiovese grape, under the diligent care of the Navacchia family, transforms into a wine that embodies the spirit of the region—vibrant yet graceful, complex yet approachable. This wine has a structure that stands up to the rich meat, the sharpness of the cheese, and the boldness of the marinara in the ravioli. Its bright acidity cuts through the richness, creating a harmonious blend with every mouthful and the slight earthy undertones in the wine pay homage to the Swiss chard.

In a sip of this wine you taste the dedication of the winemakers, and in a bite of the ravioli, you feel the warmth of Nonna's kitchen. So, as we pay homage to Nonna's table in Astoria, and to the rustic hills of Bardi, let us also raise a glass to the Tre Monti Vineyard, where the essence of Romagna is bottled. Here’s to the legacies that traverse the rich landscapes of our history, and to the new stories we weave with every meal. From west to east, from past to present, buon appetito e salute!

Nonna Elena's Ravioli Recipe

Makes about 90 tortelli. Enough for 5-6 portions.

As I’ve already confessed my passion for crafting filled ‘pasta fresca’ is rather extreme.  If the thought of making your own pasta seems daunting, let me reassure you that this journey is more about the heart you pour into it than the precision.  It’s a flour and egg dance that you too can master with a bit of practice.  And the rewards?  I assure you they will be worth every moment spent.  So, roll up your sleeves, and remember my important tips from my last post. 

• Flour matters:  I only use “00” past flour for making ravioli.  You can find it in some supermarkets or online.

• Invest in a scale:  A scale is a must for making consistent pasta fresca.  They are inexpensive.

• Hand-knead the dough:  The dough needs to be stiff before resting, and a machine probably won’t work well.

• Rolling the dough:  You can use a rolling pin, but an old-fashioned hand crank machine works best.

The Pasta:

•   600 g Italian “00” Flour

•   6 large eggs (room temp.)

•   Rimacinata Semolina flour for dusting

The Filling:

•   800 g Swiss chard (1.75 lbs.)

•   1 small onion chopped (about 85 g)

•   2 Tbs. olive oil or bacon fat (bacon fat has been our tradition)

•   50 g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

•   225 g ground beef (8 oz.) - or chicken or pork

•   ¼ cup Italian breadcrumbs

•   1 large egg

•   Salt & Pepper q.b.

Instructions:

Make a Simple Marinara Sauce. 

• The tomatoes are the star here.  Only use San Marzano tomatoes and you won’t need to add much else. 

• Sauté a few cloves of minced garlic in a tiny bit of olive oil.

• Add 1/2 cup of dry red wine and simmer about 5 minutes to let the alcohol evaporate.

• Add two 28 oz. cans of San Marzano tomatoes.

• Add 2 Tbs. dried basil, a pinch of dried red pepper, and salt & pepper to taste.

• Simmer about 30 minutes.

Make the Pasta Dough:

• Mound “00” flour on your work surface.  Make a well in the middle and pour the eggs into it.

• With a fork, start bringing small amounts of flour into the well in a circular motion.

• Once the center is firm enough that the liquid won’t run our, use a dough scraper to continue to combine.

• Knead by hand for 5-10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic.  Wrap and let rest at least 30 min.

Make the Filling:

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Trim the very ends of the chard, loosely chop, and simmer for about 20 minutes until the stalks are tender.

• Drain chard and pulse in a food processor until finely chopped.  Set aside to drain in a strainer.

• Sauté the onion in your oil of choice until starting to turn golden.  Add the ground beef and continue to cook until the meat is just starting to brown.  Drain and pulse in a food processor until fine.

• Combine all filling ingredients and mix until well blended.  Make sure seasoning is liberal because there isn’t any salt in the pasta dough.

Make the Ravioli – the fun part!

• Divide the dough into 6 pieces.  Keep the pieces you are not working with covered, so they don’t dry out.

• Starting with the widest setting, gradually roll the dough through each number until it reaches the second thinnest setting on your pasta machine.  Dust the sheet with semolina flour as needed to prevent sticking.  You should be able to see your hand through it.

• I use a pastry bag to pipe my filling, but you use a spoon if you prefer.  Cut the strip in half lengthwise, pipe filling along one strip.  Cover with the other strip and press dough around the filling to remove as much air as possible (a small wooden dowel works great for this).

• Cut with a pastry wheel and transfer in a single layer to a sheet dusted with semolina.  
  

Putting it all together:

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Drop the ravioli in and cook for about 4-5 minutes.

• While the ravioli is cooking, heat marinara sauce in a large sauté pan or a wok works well.

• Add the ravioli to the sauté pan and continue to cook tossing in the sauce for a about a minute more. 

• Transfer to a serving bowl and served topped with lots of grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

For those feeling adventurous in presentation, take a page from Nonna Elena’s cherished serving style—layer the ravioli in individual bowls. Begin with a spoonful of sauce, add a few ravioli, then a slice of muenster cheese, and repeat the layers. Once you’ve built your pasta foundation, finish with more sauce and a hearty sprinkle of grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Why muenster cheese? I will never know but can only assume that its melty goodness was likely her creative stand-in for fontina, a cheese that melts just as beautifully over the piping hot pasta.

A Regional Mystery: Nonna’s Tortelli and the Northern Italian Connections

As I reflected on my grandmother’s ravioli recipe—the one I shared here with its rich filling of Swiss chard, ground meat, Parmigiano Reggiano, breadcrumbs, and egg—I began to wonder about its origins. While her family was rooted in the Alto Val Taro of Emilia-Romagna, this particular combination of ingredients feels distinct and perhaps influenced by neighboring regions like Liguria or Tuscany.

My 23andMe results reveal DNA connections to people from these regions, and it’s possible that this recipe reflects a distant ancestral influence. Perhaps one of my grandparent's ancestors moved from Liguria to the Val Taro, carrying culinary traditions with them, or maybe the recipe was shared between neighbors, as so often happened in tight-knit Italian communities.

This dish’s simplicity and versatility—Swiss chard, hearty meat, and cheese—mirror the traditions of northern Italian cuisine. It’s similar to Ligurian ravioli, where greens like chard often take center stage, or Piedmontese agnolotti, known for their meaty fillings. The marinara sauce she always paired with it could also point to a Ligurian influence, where tomato-based sauces are more common.

While I haven’t yet found any concrete family ties to these regions, this ravioli recipe feels like a piece of a larger story—a delicious clue connecting me to the vibrant culinary tapestry of northern Italy. Nonna’s ravioli, with its unique filling and sauce, is a testament to how family traditions evolve over generations, carrying whispers of distant roots and regional influences.

For me, her ravioli is more than a recipe. It’s a reminder of the people and places that shaped my family’s history and a connection to a heritage I am still piecing together, one plate at a time. Jump back to Nonna Elena's Ravioli Recipe.

Map of the Alto Val Taro Region - My Ancestral Home

The Differences Between Ravioli & Tortellli

The difference between ravioli and tortelli lies in their regional origins, shapes, and sometimes their fillings or serving styles. Here’s a breakdown:

Ravioli:

• Origin:  Central and Northern Italy, but widely recognized across the country.

• Shape:  Typically square or round, with crimped edges to seal the filling.

• Filling:  Highly versatile—can include cheese, vegetables, meat, or even sweet fillings.

• Serving Style:  Usually served in broth, with a tomato-based sauce, butter and sage, or other regional sauces.

Tortelli:

• Origin:  Predominantly Northern Italy, especially Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy.

• Shape:  Varies by region—often rectangular or half-moon, sometimes twisted or folded to create unique shapes.

• Filling:  Traditional fillings reflect the region’s ingredients, like ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, and greens (e.g., Swiss chard or spinach). Tortelli di Zucca, for example, includes pumpkin and amaretti cookies.

• Serving Style:  Often served simply, with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano or sage butter sauce, allowing the filling to shine.

Summary

Ravioli is more universally recognized and has diverse shapes and fillings, while tortelli is more regionally specific, with traditional shapes and fillings that reflect its Northern Italian roots. Both are "pockets of heaven," but tortelli often carries a distinct sense of regional identity!

Jump back to Nonna Elena's Ravioli Recipe.